Saturday Stitch: Wide Twisted Rib Stitch

Every Saturday I will share with you a new stitch.
Today's stitch is: Wide Twisted Rib Stitch.

 It's great for  sweaters, jackets, blankets, throws etc. worked in . Multiples of 9 stitches plus 2 additional stitches

Instructions :

Row 1 (WS) K1, *p4, k5; rep from *, end k1.
Row 2 P1, *p5, RT twice; rep from *, end p1.
Row 3 Rep row 1.
Row 4 P1, *p5, k1, RT, k1; rep from *, end p1.
Rep rows 1–4.

RT K2tog leaving sts on LH needle, insert RH needle from front between 2 sts just knitted tog and k first st again, then sl both sts from needle tog.

Difficulty level: EASY

Saturday Stitch: Diamond Brocade Stitch

Every Saturday I will share with you a new stitch.
Today's stitch is: Diamond Brocade Stitch.

 It's great for  sweaters, jackets, blankets, throws etc. worked in . Multiple of 12 stitches plus 5 additional stitches

Instructions :

Row 1 (RS) *K8, p1, k3; rep from *, end k5. 
Row 2 P5, *p2, k1, p1, k1, p7; rep from * to end. 
Rows 3 and 7 *K2, [p1, k3] twice, p1, k1; rep from *, end k2, p1, k2. 
Rows 4 and 6 [P1, k1] twice, p1, *k1, p5, [k1, p1] 3 times; rep from * to end. 
Row 5 *P1, k3, p1, k7; rep from *, end p1, k3, p1. 
Row 8 Rep row 2. 

Rep rows 1-8.

Difficulty level: EASY

Saturday Stitch: Pine Tree Stitch.

Every Saturday I will share with you a new stitch.
Today's stitch is: Pine Tree Stitch.

 It's great for  sweaters and jackets etc. worked over 15 stitches on a Stockinette stitch background. 

Instructions :

Row 1 (RS) K6, p1, k1, p1, k6.
Row 2 P5, k2, p1, k2, p5.
Row 3 K4, p2, k3, p2, k4.
Row 4 P3, k2, p5, k2, p3.
Row 5 K2, p2, k2, p1, k1, p1, k2, p2, k2.
Row 6 P1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1.
Row 7 K1, p1, k2, p2, k3, p2, k2, p1, k1.
Row 8 P3, k2, p5, k2, p3.
Row 9 K2, p2, k2, p1, k1, p1, k2, p2, k2.
Row 10 P2, k1, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k1, p2.
Row 11 K4, p2, k3, p2, k4.
Row 12 P3, k2, p5, k2, p3.
Row 13 K3, p1, k2, p1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k3.
Row 14 P5, k2, p1, k2, p5.
Row 15 K4, p2, k3, p2, k4.
Row 16 P4, k1, p5, k1, p4.
Row 17 K6, p1, k1, p1, k6.
Row 18 P5, k2, p1, k2, p5.
Row 19 K5, p1, k3, p1, k5.
Row 20 Purl.
Row 21 K6, p1, k1, p1, k6.
Row 22 P6, k1, p1, k1, p6.
Row 23 K7, p1, k7.
Row 24 P7, k1, p7.
Rep rows 1-24.

Difficulty level: EASY

Saturday Stitch: Easy Honeycomb Stitch.

Every Saturday I will share with you a new stitch.
Today's stitch is: Easy Honeycomb Stitch.

 It's great for scarves, sweaters, jackets, shawls, afghans, pillows or baby blankets etc. You need a stitch number multiples of 4 stitches. Repeat the pattern between the * as many times as you like.

Instructions :

Row 1:  *  c2b, c2f, repeat from * to end
Rows 2, 4, 6 & 8:  purl across all stitches,
Row 3:  knit across all stitches,
Row 5:  * c2f, c2b, repeat from * to end.
Row 7:  knit across all stitches

Repeat rows 1 through 8.

Stitch Explanation: C2B 2-stitch back cable- slip 1 onto a cable needle and hold in back of work, knit 1, knit 1 from the cable needle.

 C2F 2-stitch front cable -slip 1 onto a cable needle and hold in front of work, knit 1, knit 1 from the cable needle.

Difficulty level: Easy

Saturday Stitch: Rose Stitch.

Every Saturday I will share with you a new stitch.
Today's stitch is: Rose Stitch.

Instructions :

Row 1: k2, *p1, k1; rep from *, end k1
Row 2 (RS): k1, *k1 in st in row below, k1; rep from *
Row 3: k1, *p1, k1; rep from *
Row 4: k2, *k1 in st in row below, k1; rep from *, end k1
Rose Stitch is another simple stitch that  provides nice texture and diagonal lines which also has easy to remember repeats. It's not as difficult as it seems to knit in the stitch in the row below. Literally insert your needle into the center of the st in the row below the next st on the left needle, then knit as normal. It's great for jackets, scarves, afghans, pillows or baby blankets etc. You need a stitch number multiple of 2 + 1  Repeat the pattern between the * as many times as you like.

Difficulty level: Easy

Saturday Stitch: Stepping Garter Stitch

Every Saturday I will share with you a new stitch.
Today's stitch is: Stepping Garter Stitch.

This pattern stitch is reversible; and is more textured on the right side; the garter stitches run diagonally in the other direction on the wrong side against a background of reverse stockinette.  Great for sweaters, scarves, throws, pillows etc. You need a stitch number multiple of 8 + 2 edge stitches. Repeat the pattern between the * as many times as you like.

Instructions :

Row 1 and all odd rows(RS): knit
Rows 2 and 4:  Edge st *k4, p4; rep from * to last st, edge st.
Rows 6 and 8: Edge st, k2, *p4, k4; rep from *, ending p4, k2, edge st.
Rows 10 and 12: Edge st, *p4, k4; rep from * to last, edge st.
Rows 14 and 16: Edge st, p2, *k4, p4, rep from *, ending k4, p2, edge st.

Difficulty level: Easy

Saturday Stitch: Mock Cable Stitch.

Every Saturday I will share with you a new stitch.
Today's stitch is: Mock Cable Stitch.
This pattern stitch is reversible; no need for cable needle or to twist stitches. Great for sweaters, scarves, throws, plillows etc. You need a stitch number multiple of 10 + 2 edge stitches. Repeat the pattern between the * as many times as you like.

Instructions :

Row 1: Edge st, * p4, k1, p1, k4, repeat from * to last st, edge st.
Row 2: Edge st, * p3, k2, p2, k3, repeat from * to last st, edge st.
Row 3: Edge st, * p2, k2, p1, k1, p2, k2, repeat from * to last st, edge st.
Row 4: Edge st, * p1, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, repeat from * to last st, edge st.
Row 5: Edge st, * k2, p3, k3, p2, repeat from * to last st, edge st.
Row 6: Edge st, * k1, p4, k4, p1, repeat from * to last st, edge st.

Rep Rows 1-6.



Difficulty level: Easy

Saturday Stitch : Rice Stitch

Every Saturday I will share with you a new stitch.
Today's stitch is: Rice Stitch.

Easy textured stitch perfect for throws,  baby blankets, pillow covers, scarves, hats etc. You need a stitch number multiple of 2+ 1 stitches. 

Instructions :

Row 1 (RS): p1, *k1 tbl, p1; rep from *
Row 2: k

Difficulty level: Easy

Saturday Stitch: Reversed Triangles

Every Saturday I will share with you a new stitch.
Today's stitch is: Reversed Triangles.

Easy to knit mirrored stockinette triangles, great for throws, pillows, scarves etc. and perfect for any reversible project.
You need a stitch number multiple of 7 + 2 edge stitches. Repeat the pattern between the * as many times as you like.

Instructions:

Row 1: edge st, * k6, p1; repeat from * to last st, edge st
Row 2: edge st, * k2, p5; repeat from * to last st, edge st
Row 3 & 4: edge st, * k4, p3; repeat from * to last st, edge st
Row 5: same as row 2
Row 6: same as row 1
Row 7: edge st, * p1, k6; repeat from * to last st, edge st
Row 8: edge st, * p5, k2; repeat from * to last st, edge st
Row 9 & 10: edge st, p3, k4; repeat from * to last st, edge st
Row 11: same as row 8
Row 12: same as row 7

Repeat rows 1 through 12.

Difficulty level: Easy

You can find this stitch and more at craft cookie

Saturday Stitch : Basket Weave

Every Saturday I will share with you a new stitch.
Today's stitch is: Basket Weave

Beautiful 4x2 variation of the traditional 4x4 Basket Weave. Great for baby blankets, throws, pillows and sweaters etc.
You need a stitch number multiple of 6 + 6 + 2 edge stitches. Repeat the pattern between the * as many times as you like.

Instructions :

Rows 1 and 3 (right side): edge st, p2, * k2, p4; repeat from * to last 5 sts, k2, p2, edge st
Rows 2 and 4 (wrong side): edge st, k2, p2, * k4, p2; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k2, edge st
Rows 5 and 7 (right side): edge st, k1, p1, * p3, k2, p1; repeat from * to last 5 sts, p3, k1, edge st
Rows 6 and 8 (wrong side): edge st, p1, k3, * k1, p2, k3; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k1, p1, edge st

Repeat rows 1 to 8.

Difficulty level: Easy

You can find this stitch and more at craft cookie

Saturday Stitch: Stockinette Brioche

Every Saturday I will share with you a new stitch.
Today's stitch is: Stockinette Brioche.

The Stockinette Brioche Stitch is another easy and fast reversible stitch, perfect for beginners. The only thing you need to have in mind is that as with any brioche stitch, the fabric will use a bit more yarn than usual.Stockinette Brioche Stitch makes a fluffy, squishy, adaptable pattern that's fun to knit and even more fun to play with. It's great for scarves, afghans or even as ribbing on a sweater. You need a stitch number multiple of 2 + 1 + 2 edge stitches. Repeat the pattern between the * as many times as you like.

Instructions :

Row 1 (foundation): edge st, * sl1pw with 1 yo, k1; repeat from * to last 2 sts, sl1pw with 1 yo, edge st
Row 2: edge st, k2tog (1 st + yo), * sl1pw with 1 yo, k2tog (1 st + yo); repeat from * to last st, edge st
Row 3: edge st, * sl1pw with 1 yo, k2tog (1 st + yo); repeat from * to last 2 sts, sl1pw with 1 yo, edge st
Row 4: same as row 2

Repeat rows 3 through 4.

sl1pw - slip 1 purl wise.

yo - yarn over

Difficulty level: Easy

You can find this stitch and more at craft cookie

Wednesday Question: How To Knit 1 Below

All knitters have questions about the best way to do things, why different things happen while they are knitting, how to fix knitting mistakes and more.
Here is this weeks question  From Maggie UK - The pattern I am using say k1b which I believe is knit 1 below.  How do you do this?




Answer: Normally you insert your right needle into the first stitch on the left needle. A new stitch is formed by pulling the working yarn through that single stitch. To knit into the stitch below, you insert your right needle into the stitch one row below this first stitch, as shown in the photo:

When you pull the working yarn through to create a new stitch, it is pulled through one row lower than normal. After the new stitch is completed, there are two strands of yarn around its base. One strand is the stitch from the "row below" and the second strand is from the stitch you normally knit into. The strand from the "row below" is lifted higher than the other stitches in its row, making an inverted "V."
When these Vs are repeated in a knitted piece, they add visual interest because the diagonal lines they create, add more depth to the piece and make it thicker and softer. When they are worked on both sides of the fabric, they can create a very deep rib. 

If you have a knitting question for Knitting Galore, please email it to : dbjones5559@hotmail.co.uk  or  Please  post it as a comment here.  All questions will be answered, and many are selected and answered each wednesday here on the Blog. 

Beginers Knitting part 2. Cast on and first stitches.

Slip knot and Cast On:

The slip knot is the stitch to start all stitches, the one that anchors the yarn to the needles and makes it possible to cast on. Before starting the slip knot, decide which method of casting on you want to try. If you choose the long-tail cast-on method, leave approximately an inch for every stitch that you’re about to place on the needle. For the knitted cast-on, leave eight to ten inches between the end of the yarn and the slip knot.The knit cast on is an easy way to get stitches on the needle to begin to knit. It's one of the first cast on methods I teach because it basically teaches you how to form the knit stitch at the same time that you're learning to cast on. This cast on isn't just useful for beginners, though; it's also a great choice when you're casting on a lot of stitches and don't want to risk having too short of a long tail, or when you're adding stitches in the middle of a row.
Like all cast ons, the knit cast on begins with a slip knot.

Leave about a 4″ tail and flip the tail over the yarn coming off of the yarn ball.

Flip the tail under the loop that was created so that it is going down the center of the loop from behind.

Pull the tail slightly through the loop.

Place one if your needles into the new top loop created (the smaller of the two loops).

Pull the loop tightly around the needle and this is your slip knot, ready to cast on the first row.

Once you've made your slip knot, put the needle with the slip knot in your left hand and the empty needle in your right.

To begin the cast on: Holding the needle with your slip knot on it in your left hand, push the needle in your right hand through the slip knot and behind the other needle.

Wrap the yarn coming from the yarn ball around the right hand needle and between the needles.Hold the yarn loosely in your right hand as you do this. This is known as English knitting, right-hand knitting or "throwing," which is different from Continental or left-hand knitting, in which the yarn is held in the left hand. Be careful not to loop the yarn over both needles, and don't pull too tightly or your stitches will be hard to work. Your loops should be tight enough to stay on the needle, but loose enough to slide the second needle through with ease. This is a concept known as tension, and like in other parts of life, too much tension is bad. As you become a more experienced knitter, you'll learn what feels like the right amount of tension in your work.

Here's the only tricky part in mastering the knitted cast on and knitting, push the right hand needle against the left hand needle and pull the yarn you just wraped around through the slip knot loop.

Now you should have the slip knot loop still in the left hand, and another loop around the right hand needle (so one loop on each needle).

Push both loops to the top of the needle by keeping hold of the yarn with your right hand so it doesn't get away from you. Slowly slide the right-hand needle down so the loop gets close to the tip of the needle, but does not slide off. At the same time the right-hand needle will be coming out from behind the left-hand needle. When the right-hand needle just comes out from behind the left-hand needle, give the right needle a little push with your left index finger to push the needle in front of the left needle.

 You're almost done! Now all you have to do is slide the loop that's on the right-hand needle onto the left-hand needle, above the slip knot loop. 

Now you should have two loops on the left hand needle.

For the next loop, wrap the yarn around the right hand needle again.

Pull the yarn through the first loop on the left hand needle again so that you have one loop on the right hand needle.

Transfer the right hand loop to the left needle so you now have three loops on the left hand needle.

Continue doing this until you have casted on as many stitches across as you would like. For this tutorial I have casted on 20 stitches (not including the slip knot).

Knit Stitch:

After you have casted on your first row, you pretty much have just been knitting already, but it is slightly different after you get the loop on the right needle so I’ll go through the first regular row.




The first step in forming the knit stitch is called opening the loop. With the needle with the stitches on it in your left hand and the empty needle in your right hand, the working yarn should be to the back of the work. The stitches are facing you, with the bumpy part of the loops facing in toward you body. Make sure you're working through the single loop, and not the bumpy part, when you form your stitches.Slip the tip of the right-hand needle into the first loop, from front to back, just like you did in the knitted cast on.




Once you've got the needle in place, simply carry the working yarn over the right-hand needle, going counter-clockwise around the needle and making sure the working yarn slides between the two needles. It is this yarn that makes the new loop that enables your knitting to become a full project. What you're doing is sliding the right-hand needle from the back to the front of the left-hand needle, keeping the loop of yarn on the left-hand needle for now but punching through with the working yarn so that it makes a loop on the right-hand needle.To do this, just slide the right-hand needle down so that the loop gets close to the tip of the needle but doesn't slide off. When the tip of the needle gets close to the edge of the left-handle needle, give the right-hand needle a little push so it can move in front of the left-hand needle. 




Pull the yarn through the loop so it is on the right needle (like above).




Once you've gotten this far, actually finishing the knit stitch is easy. All you have to do is slide the right-hand needle up so that the first loop on the left-hand needle slides off. That stitch is now "worked."




Now you’ll have less stitches on the left needle, and one on the right.




Now move on to the next loop on the left-hand needle and do the exact same thing, repeating until you are out of stitches.




Once all of the stitches are off of the left needle and on the right needle, that row is done.You just knitted your first row!
One of the biggest questions people who teach themselves how to knit often have is: how do I keep going once I've finished the first row?
When all the stitches are gone from the left-hand needle, how do you continue? Actually, it's very easy and it's a concept called turning the work.



 All you have to do is literally flip the work over. The side that you just had in front of you becomes the back temporarily. Move this needle from your right hand back to your left hand and you'll see you're right where you started again.




Continue stitching the next row as you did the first.




When you have the next row done, you will begin to see the pattern forming.

Purl Stitch:

For the next row I’ll be showing you how to do a purl stitch. You can alternate between knitting and purling in the same row as well as in different rows to form different patterns.




The main difference between a purl stitch and a knit stitch is that the right needle is put in front of the left needle instead of behind. So to start, hook the right needle into the first loop on the left needle, but in front of the left needle this time.




Wrap the yarn around the right needle counter clockwise , but this time in front of the back needle and around the front one. Just remember that you will always be wrapping the yarn counter clockwise around the needle in your right hand.




Pull the yarn through the first loop in the left needle, creating a new loop on the right needle.
Continue this same technique down the row.




When all of the stitches are off of the left needle, that row is done.




Continue stitching, rotating between the knit and purl stitch as you’d like so you can see the patterns they will form.

Knitting is a wonderful craft because even when you are first starting to learn to knit, you can make projects.

Even if all you know is how to make a knit stitch (and cast on and cast off, of course) then you can make a project. Don't believe me? Try this.

Get some worsted weight yarn, or whatever kind of yarn you've got lying around the house. If it has a label, find some knitting needles close to the size recommended on the label. If not, pick up some needles somewhere in the range of size 4mm to 6mm.

Cast on 30 stitches. Knit every row until you've got basically a square (it should be about six inches all around). Bind off.

Congratulations! You've just made your first ever knit project! And what can you do with it? Use it as a washcloth or a hot pad, send to Lily,or make a bunch of them and stitch them together into an afghan.

This tiny project might not seem very impressive until you learn that this "pattern" (knit every row) is so popular it actually has a name: garter stitch. So now whenever you see "garter stitch" in the title or instructions for a pattern, you know that's just a fancy way of saying knit every row.

Tomorrow we'll learn to cast off and follow our first pattern.