All knitters have questions about the best way to do things, why different things happen while they are knitting, how to fix knitting mistakes and more. Here is this weeks questions posed by Brenda Buckley.
Question : My pattern says to knit a swatch before starting to knit the sweater is it necessary and what is it?
Answer: YES YES YES!
The
gauge swatch is basically just a square piece of knitted fabric that
demonstrates how you, the needles and the yarn interact before you
get going on the main project. All patterns give a recommended gauge,
or stitches and rows per inch, at the beginning of their
instructions, usually directly below the suggestions for yarn weight
and needle size.
There
are a number of ways to make a swatch. This is my prefered method. My
flat-knit swatch consists of 4 rows of garter stitch, the stitch
pattern called for, keeping the first and last 4 stitches in garter
stitch, and then ending with 4 rows of garter stitch. The garter
stitches will frame the area to be measured and eliminate any
curling. See the table below for yarn weight and suggested minimum
number of stitches to cast on and rows to work.
Yarn Weight | Min. Number of Pattern Stitches | Garter Stitches for edge borders | Total Number for Cast On | Min. Number of Rows incl. 4 rows garter at beg and end |
Fingering | 28 | 4+4 | 36 | 48 |
DK | 24 | 4+4 | 32 | 44 |
Sport | 20 | 4+4 | 28 | 40 |
Worsted | 16 | 4+4 | 24 | 36 |
Bulky | 12 | 4+4 | 20 | 32 |
Super Bulky | 10 | 2+2 | 14 | 24 |
Write down your stitch gauge. And be brutally honest when measuring -
no stretching, no finagling to try to get the gauge. Then measure
again in two other places on the swatch. Average your three
measurements for your final gauge.
Repeat for the row gauge as shown in the next photo.
Repeat for the row gauge as shown in the next photo.
Stitch gauge is almost always a mandatory measurement, with the exception of those knitted items that will not be shaped to fit, such as afghans, scarves, washcloths and so on. Row gauge is absolutely critical if you are knitting any raglan garment or a fully-fashioned sleeve, if the pattern is Fair Isle, other colorwork, or certain Aran designs, where the charted design constitutes the entire garment piece and dictates the finished length. Always analyze your pattern to see if row gauge is critical to the finished garment or not. Most of the time row gauge will not matter too much but make sure you know when it does.
If
your swatch measures too few stitches, you'll need to go down a
needle size or so to get more stitches and Of
course, if your swatch measures too many stitches, you'll need to go
up a needle size or two.
Don't
forget to check your gauge after you've knit about 2-3 inches of your
first garment piece and again about halfway through. It's not
uncommon for knitting tension to change for a variety of
reasons...you're tense, stressed out, tired, etc. If your gauge is
off, switch needle size, frogging if needed back to where your gauge
was correct.
Most
knitters mistakenly think that making the gauge swatch is an extra,
unnecessary step that can be avoided altogether. If there’s one
piece of advice I hope you’ll remember, it’s this: always,
always, always
make a gauge swatch! If your knitting is so much as a half of an inch
off from the recommended gauge, you can end up with a HUGE difference
in the size of your finished garment. Take it from me that there’s
nothing quite as frustrating as working tirelessly on an adult’s
hat that ends up being the size of a toddler’s, or making a baby’s
hat that would fit best on a gorilla.
And
remember relax! Knitting is fun!